I spent the first 6 hours of today’s hike cursing the idea of hiking straight uphill for 21 of 26 kilometers, until I met the 5 downhill kilometers that make up the final stretch into Roncesvalles, Spain. I’ll take Uphill Hiking for $1000, Alex.
As I mentioned in my previous post, the first stage of the Camino is said to reduce even the fittest of hikers to feeble wanderers with blisters, and it lived up to the hype. Aside from finishing the Camino, it might be one of my hardest physical days in memory - but the breathtaking vistas into the valleys below were absolutely worth it. Somewhere between St. Jean and Orisson, where the clouds walk down to touch the tops of the mountains, is where the earth reaches up to touch the face of God.
Mountains and the foothills that surround them are imposing things. They beg to be conquered, and for as long as there have been mountains, there have been people trying to climb them (from the point at which humans were a thing, of course). Truth is, we’re all mountain climbers in a way, a sentiment that was validated time and again on the first stage of the Camino.
I met a young woman who dropped out of school to focus on getting clean, and start her life anew. She's in her 2nd year now at a University in Los Angeles.
I shared a hug with a woman who lost her husband of 38 years to cancer.
There was the father who lost his son in a cycling accident, who opened a window into his soul and bought me my breakfast beer at Orisson.
I shared a part of my walk with a recently divorced mother of two, still figuring out how to mend a broken heart.
I walked to Zubiri with Maria, still trying to find her way after her partner’s untimely death a few years ago.
There were joyful celebrations taking place on the Camino as well.
I met a bride-to-be in St. Jean prepping to walk the trail with her bridesmaids in a tiara (I keep waiting for her to catch up to us).
There was the man from Brazil who came into some money from the sale of his business (he has no timetable for fishing his walk).
The 21st birthday celebration I stumbled through, with a backpack that was probably only full of Italian beer (I didn't partake).
The German couple I met celebrating a 40th wedding anniversary gift, 15 years in the making.
You see, we’re all climbing a mountain. Some of us are at the bottom, looking up. Some of us are at base camp, or celebrating at the top. Others just need an act of kindness or a friend, to help them hold on for one more day while they try again.
The first stage of the Camino was an emotional rollercoaster that rose and fell as often and as easily as the terrain. We all took some time to look around, exchange our stories, and remind one another that sometimes the only way to get through life’s challenges, is together.
Krista has been helping me climb my mountain for more than 13 years, and today’s walk is dedicated to her. In good times and in bad, she has been a rock for our family, and I can’t think of a better person to have by my side, no matter the challenge. Every climber needs a guide, and there is no one more capable than she. Sending all of my love back to Austin, Texas - I made it to the top.
The traditional blessing from the Pilgrim’s Mass in Roncesvalles:
Lord Jesus Christ, you taught us through the Apostle St Paul that here below we have no lasting city and must always seek the heavenly city. Hear our prayers for these pilgrims we commission. May the Holy Spirit breathe his grace into their hearts; may he enliven their faith, strengthen their hope and feed the flame of their love. May they thus make their pilgrimage in the true spirit of penance, sacrifice and expiation. May the same spirit purify their minds from every evil thought. May he defend their hearts and give them the constant help of his protection so that they can reach the objective of their journey safely and by means of this pilgrimage they are now starting merit to come one day to the heavenly Jerusalem. You who live and reign with the Father and the Holy Spirit, one God, forever and ever.
Amen.
Will